This time its the easiest job of the lot and one of the commonist failures,so here we go with the how to
You can buy these bushes singly or in pairs but I'd advise you fit the pair and check the diameter of your bar before buying. Start by jacking the front of the car up, removing the wheels and supporting the car safely on axle stands
Then its just a case of removing the two bolts that hold the securing bracket for the bushes and pulling the old bush off the anti roll bar
A worn bush is pretty easy to spot and you may be able to hear a rattle when driving
A common fix to "repair" a worn bush and get the car through its next MOT is to wrap the anti roll bar with insolation tape to take up the play
(the middle picture is of the nearside, note the heat shield, that must be removed to get at the two bolts)
I think you can spot the new bush
I have found it better to do one side at a time rather than undoing both sides at once, but after you have got one new bush in place, don't do up the bolts all the way, leave them loose as the play will help you put the other side in place, then do the final tightening at the end Don't forget to torque the bolts up with the suspension at ride height (Jack the car up under the bottom ball joint) or you may get squeaking. Also if the bar is rusted, clean it up in the bush mounting area or this also will cause squeaking and premature wear. The cleaned area should be painted or a thin smear of silicone grease applied.
Do not use standard grease as this will soften the rubber
You will find that the new bushes are very stiff and hard to open. A good tip is to use a pair of circlip pliers to open up the bush while you offer it up to the bar (Do not use oil or grease to help to you fit them as this will soften the rubber)
Thank you to Stuart and Joanne Thorp for the use of their car for this how to
The front suspension of the 300C is its achilles heel, causing all sorts of complants of knocks rattles and bangs. I think this stems from the suspension layout being based on components derived from the W211 Mercedes-Benz E-Class but made from heavy cast steel rather than the light alloy Mercedes use. I have found it difficult to diagnose these faults and indeed so have many MOT inspectors, judging by the number of failed components I have found just after cars have passed their MOT. I therefore tend to start by replacing the cheapest and easiest component first (unless the failure is obvious) when tying to cure a noisy front end
The order I change components is; 1st Anti Roll Bar Bushes 2nd Drop Links (or Anti Roll Bar Link Bars) 3rd Tension Structs, 4th Top Wishbones( or Upper Control Arm) 5th Lower Control Arm and 6th Lower Ball Joint.