Track Rod End Replacement

This is probably the most common part I have to replace on the 300C. Its not the part itself at fault, as I have used them all, from genuine Chrysler to the cheapest online ones, all wear out sooner rather than later, It must be the design of the front suspension or the width of the tyres that is causing it

To replace the TRE (track rod ends) it is a pretty simple and quick job if everything goes to plan.


Firstly jack the car up and support it safely on jack stands then remove the wheels

You will then be able to see the TRE and if you are lucky it will look like this (RIGHT) with a hexagon section on the top.


Firstly give the lock nut on the track control arm and the nut on the TRE itself a quick spray with WD40 or something similar, then just loosen the lock nut, but don't move it along the arm


Now remove the TRE nut, take this nut off completly, if the shaft starts to turn, stop it by holding it with a spanner or socket on the hexagon top or by placing a jack under the TRE until it binds and stops the shaft from turning


Then one sharp hit with a nice large hammer should be all it takes to drive the TRE from the hub carrier


Next clamp a pair of mole grips onto the track control arm and unscrew the TRE, counting the turns as you go


Screw on your new TRE the same number of turns and then insert the shaft into the hub carrier and do up the nut. The shaft will start to turn at some point and you will again need to use the jack or if your new TRE came with the hexagon end, a spanner or a socket to hold it still.


Finally tighten the lock nut on the track control arm ......job done!!!


Well not quite.........It is of course reccomended that the tracking be checked, even though you have counted the number of turns off and on. Chances are that the tracking will still be out which of course may cause uneven tyre wear and bad handling

I have a pet hate to do with track rod ends and the "stone guard" fitted to the 300c front hub. This guard is made from alloy and due to dissimilar metals it corrodes around its mounting bolts until it comes loose. Now you may have read elsewhere that this guard can simply be cut off and thrown away without causing any problems, well I disagree!!


In the picture to the left you can see how the "stone guard" is shaped to follow the contours of the track rod end. I believe this is to protect it from the heat coming off the disc


In the picture on the right you can see the rubber boot of a track rod end that has become dry and brittle on the side that was facing the disc

This was taken from a car with the "stone guard" removed


If your 300c is missing its guards, you can replace them quite cheaply......

If you still have them but they have started to rattle.......


       Don't worry I have a simple fix!!!!!



This is the worst example of a worn TRE I have ever seen, It did have a boot on it when I removed it but the balljoint was full of water It is on the verge of falling apart


The front suspension of the 300C is its achilles heel, causing all sorts of complants of knocks rattles and bangs. I think this stems from the suspension layout being based on  components derived from the W211 Mercedes-Benz E-Class but made from heavy cast steel rather than the light alloy Mercedes use. I have found it difficult to diagnose these faults and indeed so have many MOT inspectors, judging by the number of failed components I have found just after cars have passed their MOT. I therefore tend to start by replacing the cheapest and easiest component first (unless the failure is obvious) when tying to cure a noisy front end

The order I change components is;   1st Anti Roll Bar Bushes    2nd Drop Links (or Anti Roll Bar Link Bars)    3rd Tension Structs,     4thTop Wishbones( or Upper Control Arm)     5th Lower Control Arm  and    6th  Lower Ball Joint